SURFIN' SAFARI SUMMER TWO - DAY THREE - June 13, 2020

 


Surfed the Malibu Pier this morning with my old friend Ian McColl. I’ve only surfed it once before and that was with my brother-in-law Clint who, like Ian, is a California-born surfer. I only feel good going to monumental spots like Malibu with Cali boys. I’m still the New York kid showing up at the basketball court feeling he needs to hit some impressive bombs during shoot around or know someone with playground pull to get him into the pick-up game. Ian is an amazing


surfer, which should be soul crushing but, at this point in life, the only thing I’m trying to beat is death. It was a pleasure watching him on a beautiful morning. The spot is like a wave-making machine and there weren’t too many people out yet. I struggled with the new wave and the new board I brought along, which was the wrong one for the locale. My old board would have been better. You don't have to worry about such things when you have just one. We did an early morning “dawn patrol” so that when I got back, Wesley was still sleeping, and Anna was looking like she hadn’t eaten in 12 hours; a look she gets every two hours. Both were none the worse for wear. This may be an inversion of the colloquialism, but no less true: It’s nice to NOT be needed (now and again).

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