SURFIN' SAFARI SUMMER ONE - DAY SEVENTEEN - August 19, 2019

  

We swing like a pendulum. After two northward treks a pilgrimage was made to the Surfing Virgin in Encinitas, which is 120 miles south of Los Angeles, in north San Diego County. About 10 years ago, some muralists painted a giant likeness of the Virgen de Guadalupe on a freeway underpass wall. Its novelty and local appeal had to do with the fact Her Immaculateness stood on a surf board. “Save the Ocean” it said. The California Department of Transportation determined it was a distraction, which it was, and said that it had to be destroyed. Encinitas being a classic Southern California surfing town, all hell broke loose. The Encinitas City Council ultimately appropriated a not-insignificant sum to have the mural removed, in-tact and placed prominently at the town's north gateway. See her photo. Sunday's destination was Swami’s in Encinitas. The beach is next to a “Self Realization Center” which appears to have something to do with Yoga. It’s quite the compound with Taj Mahal-like domes marking the four corners of its boundaries. Surfers back in the day, in all cultural sensitivity, started calling the spot Swami’s and, as usual, it stuck. When the City of Encinitas acquired the beach, the name became official. Another top surf spot. Look at some of the pictures.

See those even spaced lines of waves? That’s what you are looking for. It’s a stunning location panoramically and microscopically. The water is clear and the brownblack rocks are covered in translucent eel grass and sea moss. The water cuts the sun into thick stripes as it hits its surface and the sun speckles the salt in the water gold. You take a wooden stairway to get down to the beach and get long and high perspectives right and left of the north county coast, which is all ochre bluffs, sage scrub, and palms. We cruised all the way down after a noon departure, protected by the surfing Gods from normally horrendous traffic. We stopped in San Juan Capistrano and ate fish tacos at the Mission Grill again, because they were that good (See Surfin’ Safari Day 19). We glided into

Swami’s at about 2 p.m. There was a drum circle with wild people on a pretty green lawn next to the parking plaza. There was a monument to a local surfer. Surfing fame tends to be local. There were many surfing women. Generally speaking, San Diego surfing is very sexy. There is a softness and ease to the place, it lacks Los Angeles’ edge; is lighter, brighter, and has an even balmier clime than does L.A.  I have surfed Swami’s on three different occasions and despite the nice waves, was never able to figure it out. This time I did, but still surfed for about three hours only to get the one ride. I thought I’d be better at this point, but maybe I am and just can’t tell. Different beaches and different boards, as has been the case during Surfin' Safari Summer, may not cultivate consistency. I am not frustrated, just paddling about looking for the right position, studying the good surfers as they do it, confident in an epiphany imminent, or maybe not.