SURFIN' SAFARI SUMMER THREE - DAY SEVENTEEN - August 21, 2021































Took off for Topanga Canyon State Beach on Friday afternoon. It was the first nonMarina del Rey Safari of SST and a chance to try out a new skill level and confidence at a top surf spot...that fizzled.

Don't know what to say. The water seemed BIG. I kept getting caught in a southward current that made the lineup at the point seem leagues away.

My arms tired quickly. I'd forgotten how trying it is to negotiate the cobblestone that makes this reef so special and the feet were getting frequently nicked.

The breakers were farther out than I like and I got decimated by two forceful five-footers on my paddle to reach them.

Meantime, guys and gals were absolutely flying around out there. Amazing surfers putting on a show. So, you know, it was me and not the conditions.

Took a break, warmed up, did a pep talk, "envisioned" myself on one of those big, marvelous waves and dove back in.


Two more five-footers promptly crushed me into the boneyard below, which is why I have never believed in "positive thought" as feasible praxis.

Giant waves appear indifferent to my state of mind.

Going to try again next week, with a bigger breakfast, and more focus.

Here’s are some photos taken on my coastward drive through the canyon on Saturday.

There is no shot of the water, as it had angered me.






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